If you want to understand Finland, step into a sauna. In 2020 Finnish sauna culture was inscribed on the UNESCO list of intangible cultural heritage, but for Finns the sauna has never been a tourist attraction — it is part of life from birth onwards. A country of 5.5 million people has an estimated three million saunas: in apartment-house basements, in family bathrooms, on lakeshores and even inside the Parliament building.
Löyly — steam with a word of its own
The heart of the sauna is the stove, and the heart of the stove is löyly: the wave of steam released when water is thrown on the hot stones. The word is untranslatable — it means not just steam but the spirit and atmosphere of the sauna itself. Good löyly is soft, never scorching. The temperature is typically 70–90°C, and you go in several rounds: sit on the benches, cool off outside, return. Nobody ever takes a sauna in a hurry.
Savusauna — the slow classic
The smoke sauna, savusauna, is the crown jewel of the tradition. It has no chimney at all: the stove is fired with wood for several hours, the smoke fills the room and is finally let out just before bathers climb onto the benches. What remains is a soft, dark heat and a tarry scent that devotees consider unmatched. You will find smoke saunas in the countryside, at holiday villages and in a handful of city saunas — if the chance appears, take it.
Avanto and the birch whisk — rituals that make the experience
In winter the sauna comes with avanto: from the hot benches you walk to a hole sawn into the lake ice and dip for a few seconds. The cold shock releases endorphins, and afterwards you feel astonishingly light and clear-headed. In summer the ritual includes the vihta — a whisk bound from fresh birch branches used to gently beat and massage the skin. In eastern Finland it is called vihta, in the west vasta, and the argument over the correct word never ends. The birch smells wonderful, circulation gets going and your skin will thank you.
Legendary public saunas
Public saunas enjoyed a full-blown revival in the 2010s, but a few originals never stopped serving. Kotiharju in Helsinki's Kallio district, open since 1928, is the city's last wood-fired public sauna — the queues speak for themselves. Rajaportti in Tampere's Pispala district is the oldest public sauna still operating in Finland, opened back in 1906; entry costs only about 10 euros. The modern end of the spectrum is Löyly in Helsinki, a sculptural seaside sauna where tourists and locals share the benches in easy harmony.
Etiquette — easier than you think
- Nudity is natural: within your own session Finns bathe without clothes; many public saunas have separate hours or sections for women and men.
- In mixed sessions and tourist venues swimwear is usually allowed — check the house rules beforehand.
- Shower before the benches and always sit on a small towel.
- Steam is shared: ask the others before throwing more water.
- Talking is fine, silence is too: quiet is valued in the sauna as much as conversation.
Sauna for the traveller — the practical side
Trying a sauna as a visitor is easy. Nearly every hotel has one, often free of charge during morning and evening hours. A visit to a traditional public sauna costs around 10–15 euros, while design venues like Löyly charge 20–25 euros for a booked session. All you need is a towel and a bottle of water — seat covers are usually provided, and perfumes are never worn on the benches. Drink water between rounds and set aside at least two hours: haste is the one thing that has no place in a sauna.
The mökki sauna — the highlight of summer
Finland has more than half a million summer cottages, and nearly every one has a sauna — usually right on the lakeshore. The formula is perfect: heat the stove with wood, take your time on the benches, swim in the lake, sit on the dock, repeat. If a Finn ever invites you to their mökki, the answer is always yes. Only on the benches of a lakeside sauna, with the scent of water and a slow sunset outside, do you truly understand why the sauna is a sacred place for Finns.